Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Gardens

Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds gather.

This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish berries on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just above Bristol town centre.

"I've noticed individuals hiding heroin or whatever in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He's organized a loose collective of cultivators who make vintage from several discreet urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout the city. It is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.

City Vineyards Around the World

So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of Paris's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist cities remain greener and more diverse. They preserve open space from development by creating long-term, productive farming plots inside urban environments," explains the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those produced in cities are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, community, landscape and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he grew from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the birds may take advantage to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European variety," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Efforts Across Bristol

The other members of the collective are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I love the smell of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."

Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Natural Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established over 150 plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is picking clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the wild yeasts are released from the skins and enter the juice," says Scofield, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and then incorporate a lab-grown yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Inventive Solutions

A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to France. However it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to erect a barrier on

Suzanne Pope
Suzanne Pope

Elara is a wellness coach and writer passionate about helping others find balance and purpose through mindful living and self-reflection.